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Milan s fashion collections seemed to be going in two distinct directions: the warrior women, ready for a melee in their mod revival look, and the quieter types who d prefer, frankly, to sit on the sidelines with a nice cold cocktail to keep them company. Alessandro Dell Acqua falls resolutely into camp B, with a Fall collection full of slithery soft fabrics and pale boudoir colors.

It s not that Dell Acqua, who also designs for La Perla, was suggesting his customer put her sex appeal on hold; he just wanted to add a little romance along the way. Chiffon tops cascaded over skintight pants, ombre-dyed ostrich feathers fluttered from the top of a halter, and minidresses were of the ruffly and unruly variety. Even when he tried to be serious and severe—as with a series of snug black separates done in satin and velvet—it came off as gently enticing. For those seeking to avoid hard edges in these tough times, Dell Acqua s soft sell has undeniable appeal.