When Bernhard Willhelm said he d cast his black models on a Saturday afternoon in a Paris branch of Foot Locker, it was hard to tell if he was kidding (it s often hard to tell if he s kidding). But the warmth of his feeling for African people and culture was obvious in his latest show. More specifically, there was a heavy Nigerian vibe to the clothes. The essential silhouette of the collection was a voluminous top that seemed inspired by the traditional Nigerian agbada and was paired with equally full trousers. These were accented with a print of giant gold links, which also appeared on some of the athleticwear that has won the designer a cult following (much in evidence in the audience). Knits and pants featured prints based on old Aztec motifs—created, according to Willhelm, by artists under the influence of mescaline, resulting in a pixilated quality that looked almost computerized. (Again, if it was a tall tale, it was a good one.)
In a season that has been distinguished by its cautious dressiness, Willhelm s clothes at least stood out for their unabashed physicality, which appeared cheerfully crass in a metallic gold blouson and full-on fetishistic in side-laced jeans in washed-out denim or leather.
