Missoni mania has been bubbling round the label s womenswear for the past few years, thanks in no small part to Angela Missoni s daughter Margherita, who has been a stunningly successful ambassador for the family business. In the absence of an Angela equivalent on the men s side, it s up to small, fast-paced shows like this one to get the message out.
The clothes are certainly charming. In a season marked so far by a lot of dark, "serious" looks, the color and verve of the company s signature knitwear offers a richly romantic alternative. Creative director Luca Missoni is following the route of his sister Angela in sexing up the label s artisanal heritage by broadening its scope and making the clothes more body-conscious. The knitwear was lean and paired for the first time with jeans or with tailored pieces—boot-cut pinstripe pants or a tweed suit. Styling touches attached a gypsy narrative to the show, with one model swathed in a blanket woven with huge roses and another in a Romany waistcoat. For the finale, Luca dispensed with color altogether, showing a sexy black woven shirt over black trousers.