This season, Alessandro Dell Acqua added a hefty dose of gypsy skirts, peasant blouses, and Milan s other current idée fixe, the Spencer military jacket, to his signature floaty chiffon dresses. The additions, timely as they were, couldn t keep this collection from feeling slight. With Dell Acqua, though, that s sort of the point: He designs for young women who want to show off their bodies, at least as much as their clothes.
Come fall, those women will be swinging, sixties style, in short Empire-line dresses worn with thick tights, lamé tunics, and slipdresses, or metallic foil ultraminis topped with trim knit jackets. Dell Acqua has a penchant for lacy little tops, and he showed plenty, but there s no denying he can cut a mean pair of pants, too; lean black trousers were tapered at the ankle or tucked into knee-high boots. And when his devotees get a chill—not hard in his made-for-the-boudoir frocks—they can wrap up in one of his fur coats, the smartest of which was double-breasted and silvery gray.