Sari Gueron is a hip young woman who designs the kind of clothes that she herself wants to wear. It s a simple strategy, and one that seems to be working. Gueron s fall collection, shown in the fin-de-siècle surroundings of Manhattan s Salmagundi Club (a haven for artists since the ninteenth century), was an object lesson in, well… hip young elegance.
In a tableau of 14 looks, Gueron worked the minimalist mood that s making itself felt now: pared down and simple, but not to the point of severity. It showed in the mix of slight-shouldered jackets edged with ruffles, worn over a lace wrap dress or an Empire-line evening gown; in the palette of black and navy brightened with flashes of ivory, peach, and a delicate shade of silvery blue; and in the judicious use of antique-look jewelry from Iradj Moini. Dresses have been a focus of her earlier collections, and she offered some good examples for fall: in particular, one with a U-shape neckline of flattened ruffles and another with gathers under the bust that subtly drew attention to the waist.
"It s not so romantic and draped this season," the designer said from the sidelines. "It s much more sexy and grown up." She looked a little shell-shocked as a stream of hip young editors stepped forward to congratulate her, voicing a constant refrain of "It s just what I want to wear right now." Seems like Gueron s study of her own sartorial needs has struck a chord.
