Giorgio Armani titled his latest show "Velvet Man," and there was certainly truth in advertising in that. His signature men s collection was a paean to the plush stuff. There was scarcely an outfit that didn t render at least one of its components in velvet, most often the trousers, which Armani showed in a generous new volume that flapped around the ankles. (They also came high-waisted with suspenders.)
Velvet spilled over suit jackets in the form of hoods, or peeked out from underneath in jewel-toned frog-closed waistcoats. Shirts were printed with velvet roses; blazers came in velvet tweed, plaid, or a faded argyle. There was even a pair of shoes in herringbone-patterned velvet. The fabric loaned itself well to Armani s favored color scheme of mushrooms, taupes, and heathery grays, and it was the perfect complement to the gentle tailoring that is also his signature. (Crepe-soled shoes underscored the comfort factor.)
After a while though, a body began to yearn for a little structure. Just in time, an overcoat in double-faced cashmere came as a blessed relief from the soft parade. As for the eccentric twists we have come to expect from Armani of late, a sauvage collar-less fur coat, a silver weekend bag, and crimson suede slip-ons caught the eye. He himself stood up and was counted as a Velvet Man for his final bow, in a plush black jacket, white shirt, and tie.
