New mother Monique Lhuillier designed her fall collection, she said, in a "nesting phase," and though the show didn t move her aesthetic forward, it was good to see the L.A. native feeling at home in the tents, effectively displaying her strengths.
Lhuillier loves the nightlife, especially if there s a red carpet involved, and her gowns, as usual, were award-show friendly. A black, re-embroidered lace sheath with an exaggerated collar framing the face was a definite entrance-maker. Tulle shrugs hovered at the shoulders of dresses like puffs of smoke, and a blue corseted trumpet gown with Juliet sleeves had a Cinderella-at-the-ball prettiness. Soft makeup and upswept hair added to the glamorous effect.
The accessories were another story: The less said about the "jewel-on-a-tulle" necklaces the better. Day silhouettes, which included swing coats and bell-sleeve jackets, may well have achieved the "more covered-up look" Lhuillier was after, but there was no hiding their vintage-style heaviness. It would also be nice if the designer traded the sixties for another decade next season. But daywear isn t what people come to Lhuillier for; it s her special way with a gown that keeps them lining up for more.
