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Something in the naive and self-deprecating character of Peter Jensen s shows always hits London audiences in their soft spots for parody and fantasy. For fall, this almost evangelically nerdy Danish designer brought smiles to the bleachers with a collection about Helena Rubenstein, her fabulous stash of jewels, and frumpy-couture style. Big on boufed Carmen-rollered hairdos worn with pearl bands, the collection was Jensen s gentle way of renavigating the ubiquitous fifties trend.

Formal matching plaid skirts and kimono-sleeve tops opened the show, followed by forays into "at home" lamé cigarette pants and many of the now inevitable bubble-shaped cocktail dresses and skirts that once made up the wardrobe of a 1950 s New York socialite. Jensen also added his own spoofy homage to Madame Rubenstein s extensive jewelry collection by trimming necklines with big chunks of faux emerald and diamond Swarovski crystals. The results were cute and fun, which is precisely what keeps Jensen s customers banging at his door.