There was more than a whiff of Anglomania at Phi today, where one of Andreas Melbostad s points of departure was the work of British designer Ossie Clark. Melbostad began to take an interest in Clark while researching the prints that found their way into last spring s Phi collection. But the English influence goes beyond the sort of decorative devices Ossie favored; it s visible in Melbostad s construction techniques and in the only-for-the-bold, Biba-esque palette of purple and black.
Despite the influences, the show didn¿t feel referential or vintagey. The designer tweaked spring s flare dress silhouette with mostly engaging additions like cossack collars, keyhole necklines, and peaked shoulders. He also showed some terrific workmanship, especially when he pieced garments together in Deco patterns. A black Deco-print skirt, for example, was constructed in part with zigzag-shaped swatches of the same printed fabric—but in white—radiating from hips to hem.
Coats and jackets are Melbostad s strength, and this season they are bold, with peaked shoulders and dramatic collars. Sometimes they were worn with high-waist, flowing flared pants, which possessed a distinct Euro sex appeal. His boots aimed for same, but fell a little short. It hardly mattered, though, because all eyes were on the quality and construction of the clothes. This collection marked another step in the slow but sure-footed evolution of Melbostad s vision.
