Last month, Ruffian s Brian Wolk and Claude Morais won the Fashion Group International s Rising Star Award in an unprecedented tie with newcomer Phillip Lim of 3.1. One suspects the prize might ve been theirs alone had they infused their vintage-inspired designs with a more obvious nod to modernity. Judging by a wool jersey dress that opened their National Arts Club show and a ginkgo-print silk chiffon number, both of which featured miniature pleats, they now sense the need to head in that direction. A shirtdress with a banded hem and two thigh-grazing jumpers with oversize pockets also exhibited a pared-down, almost hip attitude. Other looks, especially those cut from a matronly silk jacquard, seemed out of sync with what s current. The duo s clothes already hang next to Oscar de la Renta s at Saks, but if they want to appeal to a younger client, as Oscar himself, fortyish years their senior, has made strides to do, they will need to keep shedding such anachronisms.
