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Tiffany

THE SEPTEMBER TO REMEMBER

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After her breakout spring collection, Sari Gueron had a lot of people rooting for her. If her fall show didn t live up to some fans heightened expectations, it didn t stop others from queuing up to sing her praises, nor did it wipe the post-show smile from Gueron s face as she described her inspiration: early-twentieth-century Vienna and its Wiener Werkstätte movement. Yes, it s an era that s been thoroughly mined by other designers, even as recently as last season, but familiarity didn t breed contempt for her lovely-as-can-be pin-tucked cotton and crinkle-chiffon dresses, her black-and-white color pairings, or her printed velvets.

New for Gueron were pin-thin stovepipe pants that suggested she is just as talented a tailor as she is a dressmaker. They ought to be scooped up by edgier girls who ve previously shied away from her feminine fare. Others who are looking for a fresh cocktail silhouette would do well to slip into her navy velvet trapeze dress, a seriously pretty version of what is shaping up to be one of the season s important cuts. Gueron s gowns have made the rounds at fashion-industry events. A red pleated silk gauze number with a black velvet sash—along with the show s closing look, a lace and pin-tucked cotton floor-skimmer—had just the right mix of youth and glamour to earn a starring role on Hollywood s red carpet.