Narciso Rodriguez s evolutionary approach to womenswear has resulted in Seventh Avenue s most clearly defined fashion geometry. He is still in the early stages of that process with his menswear, and though his repertoire is small, it s precise: fine fabrics, a monochrome palette, athletic inspirations. This season, for instance, Rodriguez had in mind an "urban ski suit," something sleek and aerodynamic to ease one s passage through a fast-moving metropolis. That might mean a zip-front, pocketless parka, or a geometrically pieced-together cardigan jacket in a camel-colored blend of wool and nylon.
The tailoring was similarly detail-free: two-button suits in gray herringbone tweed or navy wool had a plainness that virtually screamed for the imprint of the wearer s personality. (There was a smidgeon less subtlety with a cashmere sweater printed in a Rorschach-like pattern.) A black nylon coat had the stylish volume of an Eisenhower jacket. Another coat in black cashmere was belted tight to give it a skirtlike flare. The same oddly feminizing detail was echoed in the little zip on the back of a short-sleeved top. Such flourishes hinted at depths still to be explored.
