The jumpsuit is a puzzling trend. It has the one-stop-shopping appeal of a dress, yes, but none of the ease. There s no simple way to get one on, and once you have, chances are you ll look like a paratrooper crossed with a car mechanic. In other words, approach with caution—a warning that went unheeded at MaxMara, where the boilersuits, coveralls, and ski suits came in all manner of styles: flannels and satins, long-sleeved and tank, full through the leg or tapered. Another strange recurrence were the show s dreadlock knits—thick dangling fringes edging the sleeves of jackets and sweaters, and in some cases multiplying across the back.
Both concepts served only to distract from the great-looking coats that MaxMara is known for. This season the best were the ankle-grazing belted shearlings and the equally long parkas in camo green with safety-orange lining. There was no ignoring the army jackets, however, with their epaulets in electric bright blue and acid yellow; or the shocking-orange tartan pants (cut nice and slim) that were paired with a snug cropped bomber. Chic practicality has long been the essence of this brand, but, all in all there just wasn t enough of it here.