Thakoon Panichgul, recipient of a 2006 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund runner-up award, showed a winning collection today at the Prince George Ballroom, building on the strengths of last season s flower-inspired show. As a former fashion journalist, the designer knows how to spin a tale, and one of the main characters in his romantic Fall story was Paul Poiret. Both the Frenchman s (in)famous lamp-shade dress and his house s signature rose were referenced, and Panichgul succeeded in modernizing the latter by working a floriated pattern in shimmering paillettes onto silk dresses.
However, rather than indulging in the 1,001-night fantasies Poiret favored, Panichgul focused on day and outerwear. Peacock-print silk dresses would work at the office or an art opening, while open-weave cocoon jackets and snappy seamed coats would be sure to stand out on the way to either. Panichgul even added a touch of sportiness, offering a chunky cashmere baseball cardigan—albeit one that looked better suited to a pitch meeting than the pitcher s mound. The terms "tee" and "sweatshirt dress" shouldn t be taken too literally, either, as the pretty items bearing these descriptions were sewn up in misty tulle and luxurious satin, respectively. The designer won t win points for some of his drop-waisted pieces, as they won t be flattering on many figures, but you can bet there will be a waiting list for the coq-feather dress and pencil skirt.
