The air was heavy with church incense, the crowd was larded with art-world names (and Michael Stipe), and the runway was covered with the gold foil used in emergency blankets. A message so mixed promises much in the fashion world. The repurposing of purely functional materials has always been one of Ervell s key proposals, and that process provided the collection s highlights. The transmogrified parachute has become something of a signature, and here it was again in a blouson. The emergency blanket reappeared as a hoodie. It was spectacular.
But, while it was fascinating as ever to parse Patrik Ervell s cool Scandinavian take on classic Americana, one is beginning to wish for a little more oomph in his offering. There s certainly room for a bit more creative audacity in Ervell s resolutely downbeat, detail-less tailored pieces: the single-buttoned jacket, the flat-front pant, the fly-front coat, so many of them shown with footwear of a karate-kid anonymity. Not to knock subtlety, but it shines brightest as one of many weapons in the arsenal of a designer who oozes confidence. It s possible Ervell may already be safely on that path. Could the gold-beaded, paillette-trimmed cardigan he showed really have taken three months to make? Why, that s practically couture—which means oomph may be just around the corner.
