"Controlled exuberance" were Derek Lam s buzzwords backstage. Expanding on what inspired him, he cited Isak Dinesen and her lifelong struggle to resolve the contradictions between her family s bourgeois values and her own, more adventurous, spirit. That s a lot of meaning to load into a collection, but Lam gave it his best shot. The control was in the rigorous tailoring: a dramatic, sweeping duster coat; a sexy herringbone corset worn with a narrow gray tweed skirt; and a rethought three-piece suit, consisting of a trench, double-breasted riding jacket, and stovepipe trousers, all in a taupe wool tweed. As for the exuberance, it could be seen in a red and ivory floral chiné-print sack dress and in a black tulle sequined-and-feathered spaghetti-strap frock.
There were moments where Lam s two-sided equation really added up—a casually chic combination of a gold lace dress and a boxy brown leather jacket, for example. As a whole, though, the concept never quite jelled. Still, the show ended on a lovely note. Lam has always had a way with gowns, and this season was no exception. A pair of draped numbers, in midnight and black velvet with ivory pleated crinolines swishing at their hems, said soigné; the two silk gazar dresses gave us sculptural. Here, at least, the designer was fully in control.
