"Eclectic Glamour," trumpeted the notes at DKNY, where the first showing was so shoulder-to-shoulder packed that you wondered if everyone but you knew that Madonna or Justin Timberlake was giving an impromptu concert. Nope, people were there for the clothes, and there was a lot to see—a colorful, tactile, thrown-together riot of tweed, brocade, Lurex jacquard, printed silk, corduroy, and a sheep farm s worth of knits: patterned intarsias, cozy hand-knits, and fringed dresses. You did just read the word "eclectic," remember? The sixties were in full swing in the proliferation of baby-doll silhouettes, but it s a shape from seasons past that doesn t seem ready for revival just yet. Karan and her team tapped into the bohemian glamour of Biba in sweet peasant dresses, which, when removed from the busy whole, will be a sure hit—as will other pieces like a bouclé bomber jacket and several chunky sweaters. But in the end, the goal of eclecticism seemed to get the best of the situation, creating a cacophonous mix for a collection that usually rings clear with fresh energy.
