After a dress-heavy tenth-anniversary Spring show, Veronique Branquinho narrowed her sights on tailoring. She placed the emphasis for Fall on a strong, built-up shoulder, in which you could see references to her fellow Belgian Martin Margiela, if you were looking. What made her jackets and coats her own were their touchable fabrics—gray flannel, astrakhan-imprinted rabbit fur, and plaid mohair—not to mention her penchant for layering their matching straight and A-line skirts over skinny faux-leather leggings. Branquinho likes to play the buttoned-up against the edgy.
That came across in a number of sleeveless, V-neck, drop-waist nylon dresses. Worn over slim turtlenecks, they had something of the school uniform about them, save for the artful patchworks of fabrics built into their accordion-pleated skirts. Jersey shifts color-blocked in heather gray and black, and lace frocks in copper or emerald green rounded out an understated collection. Branquinho didn t add much to this season s fashion conversation, but the smart, self-possessed girls who number among her fans will find things to like.
