Andrew Gn traded in the lush, tropical colors of his Spring show for a more subdued Fall lineup of black, white, and herringbone tweed, with shots of teal, bronze, and bottle green. Last season s gold-bullion embroidery and gobstopper-size crystal and gem embellishments have been downsized, too—replaced by less flashy surface detailing: trims of patent leather, snake, or (in his made-to-measure Atelier line) mock croc. These appeared on the neckline of a red cocktail dress, at the waistband of cropped and tapered pants, at the edges of geometric cutouts on silk blouses, and on the toggle closures of slim-line coats.
If some of Gn s more tony ladies are forced by his new restraint to look elsewhere for their trifles, his daywear s dark and moody vibe is likely to win him some hip new customers. It will probably prove a savvy move to have dialed down the before-dark glitz in a collection he dubbed "utility couture."
Evening was another story, however. His floor-length columns came with jewels nestled into their necklines or perched on one shoulder. The best was a chiffon number with hand-stitched organza bell sleeves and iridescent crystal embroidery inspired by thirties Cartier jewelry. Gn knows that the only utility in a gown is its ability to turn heads.
