From the first look out, a taupe suede trenchcoat with a big fur stole, it was clear that Derek Lam would be going the give-the-ladies-what-they-want route. There was no reinventing the wheel here, just superluxe versions of the sportswear his girls know and love him for, in a gorgeous warm and soothing palette of beige, gray, camel, and gold, with touches of navy and black. Backstage, Lam said his colors and textures were inspired by Yves Saint Laurent s interiors, and the mood by Louis Malle s 1958 movie, Ascenseur pour l échafaud, which starred Jeanne Moreau as a wicked film noir heroine. That would explain the preponderance of dramatic outerwear, including a number of furs, most of which were rendered in coyote—good news, girls, that should help to keep the prices down.
Don t think retro, though. Lam touched on more than a few of what are shaping up to be Fall s key items, including skinny black leather pants, a slightly oversize tuxedo jacket, a cape, and draped and wrapped jersey dresses. One with snaps down the side of the torso looked especially sexy. Unusually, the designer sidestepped big evening dresses, which is usually a strong suit, focusing instead on strapless cocktail frocks in amber georgette and sand-colored crepe de chine. There is such a thing as playing it too safe. Lam s not necessarily guilty of that, but you walked away wanting something more.
