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Iceberg s Paolo Gerani can be counted on to nail the trends. Volume, fur, chunky knits, neons—he had them all, plus the season s glossy red lips for good measure. But wearability too often seemed like an afterthought at his Fall show. A hot pink heavy-gauge cable-knit sweater topping a black python-stamped stretchy skirt is one thing, but a strapless dress made of the stuff isn t likely to go over with this collection s target audience of lithe young party types—can you picture dancing in the thing?

What worked were the more body-conscious looks, like a purple jersey number inset at the waist with an hourglass-enhancing panel of black quilting. The Robert Indiana LOVE sculpture intarsia sweater dresses, meanwhile, made a clever follow-up to last season s Jeff Koons prints. They were a sweet reprieve from the show s aggressive styling.