Ethereal, not edgy, has always been Vanessa Bruno s adjective. For Fall, though, she s joined the urban-warrior brigade—having judged, apparently, that breezy chiffon layers and lots of skin weren t quite the thing in which to face down 2009 s harsh new realities.
Opening the show were navy ribbed sweaters with military-looking gold fringe on the shoulders, worn with leather leggings and suede wrap skirts (there was a lot of action at the hips). Closing it were dresses with bodices that were Rodarte-like collages of black tulle, gold dots, and basket weave. Sandwiched in between were the sorts of colorful pieces that her legions of fans and international retailers love: a golden hammered-silk blouse and gray high-waisted trousers accompanied by a dark-green leather obi; a Lurex-shot violet dress; and a wine-red coat that she accessorized with knee-high black leather spats. Plain old pretty wasn t on Bruno s agenda this season, which puts her (a bit too) squarely in the middle of things.
