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With military influences remaining such a strong trend both on and off the runway (every other person on Bedford Avenue in Williamsburg sports a green army jacket these days), it s no surprise Banana Republic s Fall 2010 collection was heavy on utility pieces. The retailer certainly knows a thing or two about the style—it originally peddled safari vests and field coats before being acquired and rebranded by Gap.

Creative director Simon Kneen turned out twill miniskirts, an olive-drab wool dress, and slim cargo pants, which he paired with washed silk frocks and great cardigans tailored to resemble ladylike jackets. "It s all about the modern mix," he said backstage. "Formalwear mixed with casual attire and sportswear." The mostly neutral procession of looks wasn t the most exciting big-brand collection we ve seen, but Kneen s mix-it-up message speaks to the approach these companies must take now: "It s about the individual, rather than a uniformed look."