For Fall, Jill Stuart was inspired by Heidi Specker s photos of the Black Forest in Germany. "I love how she views nature architecturally," the designer explained backstage before the show. This reference came across in the collection via color-blocking in a palette of vibrant autumn hues—currant, teal, cognac, and emerald. And there was a more literal interpretation of the enchanted-forest theme with whimsical owls and foxes screen-printed on to-the-knee silk shifts and exaggerated cap-sleeve blouses. On that note, Stuart also showed several of what she called "Bambi" deer furs (printed on rabbit); a belted tunic that hung open at the sides was particularly notable. The string of metallic frocks featuring a complex mix of sunburst and plissé prints had an Art Deco vibe and should appeal to Stuart s girly customer, particularly the bright salmon number worn by Anais Pouliot. But one of the coolest looks in the collection didn t have lots of bells and whistles: The drop-waist dress with a pleated "lipstick" suede skirt and leather cognac bodice stood out, showing that Stuart knows how to stay ahead of the curve.
