Sonia Rykiel s Left Bank gamine is just back from a trip to the U.K., where she loaded up her suitcases with tartans, fisherman s knits, Fair Isle sweaters, and argyles. She even found room for a pair of brothel creepers, the shoes beloved of Britain s teddy boys. Heritage fabrics were a big trend at the London shows, but this felt different, a bit discombobulated in fact, despite the inclusion of some on-brand sweater dresses. Perhaps it boils down to this: You can take the girl out of Paris, but you can t take Paris out of the girl. Nathalie Rykiel, who emerged for her bow sans her mother Sonia for the first time ever, loaded up the looks with gobstopper-size pearls, pointy-toe patent pumps, and brightly colored fox stoles, although those were more Prada than Parigi. For after dark, she showed sequin-striped cocktail dresses and gowns with bra-cup busts and cutouts at the sides.
After making their way to the photo pit, the models didn t return backstage but lingered on a runway decorated with lighting sculptures designed by the Scottish artist Martin Boyce. There s the U.K. influence again, but it wasn t enough to give this collection the cohesion it needed.
