For being a pixie of a thing, Wayne Lee sure knows how to design tough clothes. Head-to-toe leather, in the style of Rick Owens, was the look for her Fall collection. Hoods, asymmetric zips, draped jersey, distressed suede—they all figured prominently here, with everything executed in a palette of black, white, and dirt brown, with pops of bright red.
Lee drew inspiration from the Renaissance artist Hans Memling s oil portraits, and that came across in the gritty textures and androgynous feel of the collection. A long and sharp white vest, for example, looked like a nobleman s doublet; the tough, padded jackets would work as part of an urbanite s suit of armor. There were softer pieces mixed in, too. Au courant mid-calf skirts that hugged the body were bias-cut in three-ply silk. Lee also added a personal touch with wooden amulets and collars hand-carved by her boyfriend, Eric Fertman.
