Franz Kline s Painting No. 7 was Albert Kriemler s starting point for Akris this season. The black slashes on the action painter s famous canvas inspired not only the geometric grid print of the opening pantsuit but also the graphic color-blocking and patchworking of different fabrics and textures that informed much of collection. Kline is also something of a totem for Kriemler for the way his work embodied a dynamism and freedom of movement.
Among the collection s highlights were a jacket pieced together from parallelograms of leather, cashmere, and ponyhair; a color-blocked cape; and a patchworked side-zip jacket teamed with fitted, tapering pants. All of these were in varying degrees of black, but Kriemler also embraced color. His clients will get a lot of wear out of double-face cashmere coats in purple and a fiery orange.
At times, Kriemler stumbled. Simplicity isn t effortless. The fit of the low-waisted, pleated trousers could ve been better, and the allover paillette embroidery on evening pieces was distractingly sheer; it would ve looked more elegant worn with slips. But he ended on an up note: A series of dresses that were belted in front and hung loose from the shoulders in back captured the ease of movement he was talking about.
