New designer, new directive? At Azzaro, the answer is both yes and no. Mathilde Castello Branco was named the brand s creative director last year when the spot was vacated by Vanessa Seward, but the mandate remains essentially the same: pretty party dresses and event gowns, with the crystal strass embroideries that put the house founder s name in lights so many years ago.
Castello Branco, who hails from Lanvin, used the crystals sparingly and with some wit. The bow at the neck of a simple dove gray dress was picked out in stones, as was its tulle-covered peekaboo back, and the tiers on a little black number were embroidered with the crystals in a subtle, dégradé style.
What felt newsy was a print of aces, diamonds, hearts, and spades—we can t recall ever seeing a print at Azzaro—and a silver python used for a sweetheart-neckline cocktail frock and a sleeveless coat-dress. Outerwear was never part of Loris Azzaro s vocabulary, and it was the weak link here, but overall, this new incarnation of Azzaro holds promise. Next on Castello Branco s agenda should be finding a space that can accommodate the curiosity seekers. The house atelier doesn t cut it.
