Fall is Clare Waight Keller s second season at Chloé. For direction she looked to her own experience as a Brit in Paris. Backstage she explained that she tried to mix the casual vibe of English sportswear with the dressier sensibility of the French. That s the concept that informed the red knit sweatpants she paired with a pop-over lace blouse, or a floral embroidered sweatshirt worn with a quilted satin pencil skirt.
Sporty outerwear in the form of a peach duffel coat, or a bomber in the same powdery shade, was the collection s main strength. Knitwear, with which she has lots of experience from her years leading Pringle of Scotland, came in second. A hand-knit turtleneck in heathery pastels will have admirers. The big problem here was what that sweater was matched with: droopy leather bloomers with elasticized hems that hit slightly south of the knees. These abbreviated pants made multiple appearances, and they weren t doing the models any favors.
Waight Keller has a good handle on the breezy, uncomplicated frock that is Chloé s claim to fame. She proved that last season, and she confirmed it here with a deep red drop-waist T-shirt dress and an ivory shirtdress with a lace skirt. These would be a good place to start when she sets to work on next season.
