The news at Christophe Lemaire was knitwear, which ranged from skinny ribbed essentials—some sheer like underpinnings—all the way to rugged fare like your classic army-surplus crewneck, now in mohair with satin patches. A new brick in the wall holds more sway here than it might elsewhere. That s because Lemaire isn t looking to blow your mind each season, but rather to methodically build a wardrobe, or an "alphabet of sartorial forms" as he called it. But there s subtle beauty in his workaday utility, which was on display today in twenties-inspired dropped waists and Poiret-esque coats.
As with the men s collection Lemaire showed a month ago, there was an amped level of luxury here, as well as other resonances. Lemaire carried over the Donegal tweeds, patchworked neatly into a coat and even better in a back-to-front contrast suit and a sturdy felted wool peacoat. It s hardly surprising, considering the designer s womenswear is quite masculine in its minimalist, Eastern-focused way. There s something a bit millennial Annie Hall in its jauntiness. A flippy little pleated knit mini, worn with a tabardlike vest, provided a relatively sexy counterpoint to a collection that otherwise got quite serious. Still, there s plenty of sizzle available elsewhere for those who want it, and this designer stands out in knowing his way around a luxurious product. You could see how the particular woman who likes Lemaire could easily be cultish. Now that he s settling into his role at Hermès, Lemaire is growing his own label, with a push into the U.S. Next Fall could see a whole new batch of converts.
