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"Modern Renaissance" were the words Damir Doma used backstage to describe his new collection. That s a tricky proposition. We know the era best from costume dramas and art museums—where are the connections between the Renaissance and real life as it s lived today? Some of Doma s propositions erred on the historical side: A quilted leather tabard, worn like a coat of armor on top of a fur jacket, cut a striking figure, but it also looked like an extra step that postmillennial women probably don t have the time or inclination to take.

Fortunately, Doma didn t rely too heavily on such pieces. The crux of the collection was up-to-date tailoring in shades of black, brown, dark red, and orangey pink. The only thing that said sixteenth-century about his suede blazer, button-front blouse, and crossover-waistband pants was the oversize cross pendant they were accessorized with. A black lace cardigan and T-shirt worn with dévoré shorts looked equally contemporary. Doma also gets points for his commitment to flat slippers and boots—that s a step a modern girl can really get behind.