Architecture buff Lela Rose says that her latest collection was inspired by a recent trip to Dallas, where she became besotted with Santiago Calatrava s Margaret Hunt Hill Bridge. As the designer explained over the phone a few days before her show, her aim was to translate Calatrava s undulating, linear sensibility into a collection that married both romanticism and functionality. There were elements of both, in a pretty, wearable collection that benefitted from Rose s flattering tailoring.
The palette called to mind the patina that construction metals acquire over time—deep rust, darker magenta, and saturated blacks and grays. From afar, the surface of a pomegranate-pink tiered fil coupé dress looked like flowers; at closer range, it resembled patches of peeling rust. Befitting a collection inspired by urban buildings, the silhouette was attenuated and lean. Pronounced seaming gave shape to the clothes, but in a nod to Calatrava s swooping, soaring structures, woven fabrics created the effect of undulating lines. Coats were collarless and dresses subtle pleats allowed for plenty of movement. For cocktail hour—or a lucky girl s prom—a classic silk cloque dress in ivory had chic linebacker s shoulders: They were sparklingly embellished with cool metal embroidery and pearls. In the past, some of Rose s pieces have suffered from too heavy a hand. Fall s restraint made for a solid foundation.
