The New Look is getting a new lease on life for Fall. At his show today, Roland Mouret modified the silhouette that Christian Dior made famous in 1947. The jacket peplums weren t as generous, the skirts weren t half so ample, but the general feel was there. That meant Mouret put a stronger emphasis on tailoring than usual. As the designer of the world-famous Galaxy dress, he must feel pressure, both internally and externally, to stay focused on the proverbial one-piecer. But he was interested in the idea of multiples this season. In fact, he mentioned the Great Freeze of 1947, one of Europe s coldest winters on record, as the impetus for his focus on layering. Jumpsuits, for instance, were designed to look like a gilet belted over full-legged pants, but they were actually attached by a vertical zipper in the back.
There was a lot of drama when it came to the rear view. Origamilike folds accented the shoulders of a smart checked jacket with a leather collar, and sleeveless coat-dresses turned and revealed themselves to be not coats but vests cropped above the waist. A lot of thoughtful consideration and fine craftsmanship went into these pieces. You couldn t help but think, though, that what will ultimately seduce his customers was the slip-it-on-and-go, modern sex appeal of the stretchy asymmetric dresses that closed the show.
