"It s a big change for me," Anthony Vaccarello said backstage, "there s nothing fitted." Nothing fitted? The Belgian Vaccarello has built his reputation so far on super-revealing, more-bare-than-there party frocks. He s always included a few tailored pieces in his lineups, but until now it s been Karlie Kloss six-pack or Anja Rubik s hip bone that have landed him headlines. He hasn t gone respectable on us—not with Karmen and Isabeli rocking evening dresses inset with embroideries of silver discs that made it clear they weren t wearing underwear. Still, you will notice a new emphasis on outerwear, leather separates, and knits. If that sounds hopelessly dreary—like he s been listening too closely to the department stores—it wasn t.
Vaccarello kept coats interesting by inserting chain-link embroideries at the cuffs, or using silver spikes instead of toggle closures, hardware that reappeared on sandals and boots. He s never worked with leather before, but you wouldn t guess he was a beginner. A blouson dress with a dropped waist, rounded shoulders, popped collar, and pushed-up sleeves looked killer. For gals who like things a little more body-con, he showed a button-up top tucked into a tiny mini with an asymmetric hem paneled in those silver discs. The ribbed angora crews and turtlenecks softened the tough-chic vibe of other hardware-strewn leather minis. The key to the new feeling of the collection was probably the double-crepe he used for many of the looks, those finale dresses included. "When you wear it, you feel comfortable," he said. Comfortable and sexy at the same time? It s a combination that could really take Vaccarello places.
