Gary Graham s Fall collection had a distinct medieval tenor, which dovetailed with the designer s perennially romantic point of view. At a preview in his Tribeca store/studio space, Graham conjured up images of a woodland queen wearing gold-flecked tapestry jacquard skirts, wispy silk "hatch plaid" shirts, and delicate knits. Per usual, there was an emphasis on liberal layering here, and the sheer puff-sleeve T-shirts worn under many of the looks added a Renaissance touch. Outerwear standouts, including utilitarian hunting jackets and a nipped-in coatdress with a corset-like leather bodice, toughened up the equation a bit. Overall, Graham succeeded at modernizing his references to the Middle Ages, but there is always something detached and otherworldly about his clothing. "I m always focused on the idea of isolation and how that has to do with fashion," Graham said. It s nice to see someone who listens to his own voice and goes with his gut instead of the current trends.
