The J.Crew operation is so well-oiled and so canny, it s easy to forget that there s some magic in it, too. Womenswear designer Tom Mora is the person with the tricky job of breathing new life into the established J.Crew look each season; by now, the conventions of that look are crystal clear, in particular its signature embellishment of preppy American sportswear staples with eclectic details. It s a formula, but as this collection reminded you, the clothes are never formulaic. There s always a sense of spontaneity. This season, the spontaneity derived from Mora s Moroccan inspiration—the result of a trip to Marrakech he took on a whim at the close of last season. Marrakech is a familiar fashion reference, of course, but it was interesting to see it translated into the clean-cut J.Crew idiom. Notable looks included coats in punchy tile prints, a crewneck sweater with a dense Moroccan rug knit, silk tees with sequined arabesques, and a natty navy peacoat embroidered with gold bullion; elsewhere, interpreting the reference more liberally, there was a great tweed suit that picked up the tile print s eye-popping palette, and a draped wool coat with a subtle beaded lapel. Jewel details were a theme, as were glittery brocade and jacquard; more understated items included J.Crew s new trouser silhouette, a cropped, boyish pair, and schoolboy jackets with conspicuously trim shoulders. All in all, it seemed like there was some extra magic in the formula this time.
