The push/pull of masculine and feminine is shaping up to be one of this season s big stories. Vanessa Bruno cleverly inserted herself in the middle of the conversation today with a strong new collection. With its emphasis on sportswear, it seemed almost tailor-made for the U.S. market, where she announced she ll soon be opening her first permanent shop, in New York.
Bruno started off with the boy stuff: Boxy pinstripe jackets and full, pleated pants matched with color-blocked shirts buttoned all the way up to their collars had a cool swagger. Same goes for the military-sharp coats, some with bold, rubberized stripes at the hems, which will be a hit in stores. Other outerwear evoked a sixties Courrèges feeling with contrast quilted leather shoulders and trim details, a mood that was echoed by skirts with oversize grommets decorating their hems.
On the sweeter side of the designer s story, the spangled shift dresses—tunics, really—that closed the show were way too short. But girly has always been essential to the Bruno brand. She knows her way around a swingy little dress, and there were a couple in graphic blocks of black and white that looked great. Her pleated miniskirts, meanwhile, are another reason we ll be seeing lots of bare legs next fall.
