The challenge for a designer creating a collection motivated by the cozy clothes worn après-ski is that slim-fit tuxedos look inherently out of place. But Paul Joe s Sophie Albou-Mechaly has constructed a milieu where these two extremes are unified by a spectrum of plush Italian knits, tweedy trousers, and one multicolored beagle that makes quite the impression on an intarsia sweater.
In particular, the designer gravitated toward double-face duffel coats and reversible blousons in strong windowpane patterns of burgundy and blue marine or subtler chevrons, stylized Fair Isle sweaters, and a week s worth of shawl-collar cardigans and oversize jacquard scarves. Her printed shirt of the season —it s not Paul Joe without one—placed cutesy bunnies and birds in a formal setting appropriated from old Delft porcelain. The effect was only one level less incongruous than Mario and Luigi at the Louvre, but we ll let that one slide. Really, Albou-Mechaly seems proudest of her made-in-France suiting. She accommodated her cuts for both CrossFit and cigarette physiques, and introduced a dark brick red-brown as a black alternative. The suits were sharp enough to help the brand convey a well-rounded offering, and can be further enhanced with neckwear from Maison F as part of a special collaboration with designer François Régis Laporte. But they ve got nothing on the beagle, shaded with thirty-five different hues and afforded such irresistible puppy-dog eyes.
