In recent seasons, Jill Stuart has allowed herself to drift toward a more freewheeling, edgy look. Backstage before her Fall runway show, the designer described her muse this season as "a girl with attitude who likes to pick her clothes instinctively. She s massively unpredictable and boyishly poetic—an irregular beauty." Stuart worked with a variety of lush fabrics, including crystal-studded velvet, suede, and creamy satin, and didn t skimp on opulent furs; a standout coat combined beaver, rabbit, and mink. Stuart achieved a balance of sweet and sexy with a soft knit bodysuit worn underneath a leather wrap skirt, and exuded elegance with a silk turtleneck blouse (with trailing ties in back) paired with slim, tailored trousers.
The second half of the lineup consisted of the designer s signature party dresses, which seemed to get increasingly intricate with each model s exit. Thigh-grazing A-line styles came in specialty fabrications such as laser-cut wool felt accented with gunmetal sequins. Another strapless style featured allover embroidery and sparkly embellishment. Meanwhile, long, cozy coats and hooded capes cut from brushed mohair that had a lived-in, pilled effect were a high point. The look modeled by Drake Burnette—a strappy black and raspberry-colored coat—nicely encapsulated Stuart s message. While her sexy LBDs read bottle-service club, the quality outerwear displayed a downtown sophistication.
