This season found Thakoon Panichgul looking to Patagonia, "its vivid and painterly landscapes," and the clothes required to thrive in them. It was a rewarding trip, especially after a Spring collection that left you feeling like Panichgul was a little bit lost. The look here was layered. A "turtleneck shoulder topper"—in essence, a fitted capelet—was stretched over the top half of a crisp white button-down worn with a flared hem skirt. A funnel-neck scarf topped a sleeveless dress. Irreverent and clever, Panichgul made you reconsider some things in your own closet. With a little imagination and a good pair of scissors, any number of languishing sweaters could be transformed into something akin to his shoulder toppers.
When Panichgul wasn t busy layering, he was synthesizing surprising elements. A dress that looked like two pieces was actually just one, yet still managed to convey the appealing ease of a sweater and skirt. And that wasn t the only trick of the eye. Panichgul ruched chiffon so it looked like fleece, then inset a panel of the stuff in an actual shearling jacket. Color, usually one of Panichgul s strengths, went missing at his last show, but it came roaring back gorgeously today. Fuchsia, cobalt, and aviator orange mingled with camel, navy, and black. A puffer coat embroidered with Technicolor blooms might not fly in the harsh conditions of Patagonia, but it would be a beacon on the streets of New York at this time next year.
