The big news from Yeohlee Teng this season is the introduction of a new menswear capsule. It s a natural expansion for the designer, who has created one-off pieces for pals such as Costume Institute curator Harold Koda, and already offers several unisex items (including a best-selling rain jacket sold at the Neue Galerie) in each collection. "I ve had many requests and some demands from male architect friends and designer friends, so I was compelled to do something," Teng said before her Fall Yeohlee show. Another impetus for launching Yeohlee Men s was the location of the brand s recently opened Manhattan store on 29th Street, just down the street from the swanky Ace Hotel. "I have a lot of cool-looking guys popping by, and I thought it would be good to capture that audience," she said. Teng just might succeed at drawing in those hip guys—especially if they re eco-conscious—with her new range of efficiently cut, zero-waste basics such as slim black jackets, Velcro duffle coats, and jersey slacks. Many of her masculine looks were shown alongside corresponding outfits for the girls. She sent out a pair of blood red toppers cut from boiled wool bonded with faux shearling. With its practical hood and curved hem, the women s style was a bit more convincing than the men s.
Teng s work is often influenced by the arts, and this time around she referenced the De Stijl abstract movement as a jumping-off point. A peach-colored brocade skirtsuit printed with graphic, bifurcating stripes tapped into this inspiration, as did the standout finale look, a silk crepe evening set featuring a scratchy "bird s nest" pattern, which was finished off with a sparkly paisley tuxedo jacket. The lineup could ve been a bit more cohesive overall, but broken down, there were plenty of terrific separates here.
