Zadig Voltaire wrangled a variety of industry heavyweights for its show today: models Kirsten Owen, Soo Joo Park, Hanne Gaby Odiele, and Jamie Bochert; runway music master Frédéric Sanchez (who spliced U2 s "Numb" with Missy Elliott s "One Minute Man"); and producer Alexandre de Betak. While designer Cecilia Bönström did not try to pass off her sweaterdresses and embellished parkas as anything more than "clothes with attitude," it s clear that the brand understands the importance of perception. For all the spangled jumpsuits and jackets, there were an equal number of well-designed knits. The overarching message came via a military green coat, to which Bönström added trendy detailing and accents of tangerine. She used a vintage dress to inform the final look, and loosely adopted Warhol s flowers for the collection s sole print. Styling was crucial here. What happens if, a few months from now, a shopper enters a store and tries on the long embroidered lace skirt; will she figure out that it looks best when worn with an oversize sweater, attaining Bönström s oppositional ideal? There s no way to know—and certainly no way to control it. All the more reason to stage a knockout show.
