At his New Year s Eve party in Dubai, Olivier Rousteing threw Kendall Jenner into the sea—even though she was wearing the trousers she d recently been shot in for U.S. Vogue. Rousteing recounts: "She said, But babe, they re Balmain! I said, Yes, but I am the designer, so I can do whatever I want. " This snippet might seem tangential to a menswear review, but the 28-year-old Rousteing s dedication to big-budget debauchery is, he reasons, as good a way of researching his market as any.
So what do Rousteing s male party people desire for Fall 15? Going by the evidence of this collection, they are hoping to resemble louche, skateboarding sea captains with a penchant for sparkle. Naval peacoats and greatcoats trimmed with gold frogging and oversize ersatz roaring-lion heraldry were layered over judo-belted velvet waistcoats. Trousers were either tight bikers—knit and leather—or supersize. The shoes were Balmain does Vans, in leather, sometimes gold, buckled, tasseled, or quilted. A green velvet blazer-facade jumpsuit was marvelously wrong, maximal androgynous. There were, of course, several jackets studded with crystal. No head was left un-beanied. Rousteing is confidently negotiating a fine line between extravagance and vulgarity. The Methuselah-drinking man who will want these pieces will need to be equally sure of himself to wear them well.
