Rich and humble. That s how Damir Doma described the work of the "fiber artist" Sheila Hicks that inspired the stratified, hole-peppered, patch-knit material in this collection. But those words apply just as well to the rest of Doma s Fall 15 study in texture and touch. Like so many this season, this menswear collection was flecked with women s Pre-Fall, and here the two genders rubbed up against one another with particular sympathy and, where appropriate, symmetry. For the men, a women s knit dress shortened into a sweater, differently textured at the arm, shoulder, and body, each section demarcated by a worried woolen ridging. High, accented-pleat felt trousers were held by long, thin leather belts decorated with horn ovals; a skewed shawl collar was worn over a scarf in the same material that provided ovoid extensions. This was gently abstract stuff—Doma says he thinks of himself as a sculptor—but his soft-shouldered cashmere overcoats were gut-level desirable. Finely done, bar the nipple-flashing yellow cashmere under-sweaters.
