The best adjective to describe Junichi Abe, the designer behind Japan s relentlessly growing label Kolor, would be subtle. Abe is as subtle an individual as he is in his approach to fashion-making. While other Japanese stalwarts, old-school as well as new-school, lean toward the bold, the extreme, at times even the farcical, Mr. Abe is extremely considered in his choice of colors, shapes, and materials. Which doesn t mean he avoids strong style statements. He just delivers them with remarkable softness. "Balance—that s what is important for me," Abe said backstage after today s show.
With its intricate patterns and decorative geometries in rusty, organic hues, the collection exuded a vague, if persistent, Native American/Western feel. "I wanted to imbue a touch of folk without making things too literal," said Abe. That meant a lot of pattern, blanket tailoring, and a stress on the charmingly tactile. Think a smattering of cutout suede jean pockets applied along the hem of a sturdy coat, or ribbons drawing geometries on a blazer. The nomadic allure was highlighted by the striped shawls and moccasin-hued stitched sneakers. Loose yet controlled, the silhouettes had a pleasingly urban ease, which is another Kolor trademark.
What s charming about the label is, precisely as the name states, the unique variety of colors the clothes come in. Abe has a painterly eye. It s rare to see so much chromatic refinement in contemporary menswear. A coat in a vibrant shade of pumpkin orange might sum it up perfectly: bright and strong, yet—once again—subtle.
