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Fall found ADEAM designer Hanako Maeda in a quieter mood, far from last season s Yves Klein blue and glossy heat transfers. Here was a lineup in charcoal, black, oxblood, cream, and little else. Fabrication is always paramount to the brand, but the rich fil coupe from Maeda s Fall 14 outing was nowhere to be found–though with what she showed instead, it was hardly missed. Take the dreamy cashmere-sable blend the designer whipped up and sent out in wrap tops and jackets, or a long navy wool coat with geometric designs in mohair (a statement piece without verging on full-on street-style bait). Elsewhere was a great nylon parka trimmed in curly lamb at the collar, and a nubby white sweaterdress, eyed hungrily by half the front row.

While the looks on offer might have benefited from a slightly tighter edit, this was a strong showing for Maeda, with a clear message: easy, cozy, and, of course, hyper-luxe. And the designer s got only big things in the works for the coming months. In addition to the forthcoming debut of ADEAM s first ad campaign and market appointments in Paris, come February 25 Maeda opens her first brick-and-mortar location, an in-store boutique at Tokyo s Isetan.