Akris Albert Kriemler has long been known as a minimalist, but it s a misconception. It s true that his work is understated compared to much of what we see on the Paris runways, but he does quite a bit of fabric development and invests a good deal of time and energy dreaming up novel ways to embellish the luxurious materials that come out of Akris St. Gallen mills. That s rarely been truer than it was this season, when Kriemler made an in-depth study of a rather straightforward subject: jackets.
It started simply, with his take on the athleisure trend that s swept through fashion. Kriemler s hoodie came in bicolor Sea Island cotton, and was shown underneath a reversible silk fleece blazer downy as all get-out. From there, he upped the ante: quilting leather for a fitted down jacket, laser-cutting small checks into the gray and white tartan of a pantsuit, and embroidering tiny bits of wool onto the silk tulle of a column dress and matching redingote gilet.
Things culminated in cotton-lace parkas that appeared to be lacquered. These were clean, streamlined clothes—the real bang for the buck will be found at close range, where the details can be savored. Kriemler s main interest here was surface treatments, so he stuck to a restrained palette of barely there neutrals and black, save for a one-off bright yellow leather tunic. A little more of that kind of color could ve woken up this well-executed but somewhat sleepy collection.
