There s sexy and there s sustainable, and never the twain shall meet. Or so it largely went, until Jaclyn Hodes launched Awaveawake back in 2012, her line of sensual, pared-back clothes. "Employing eco-friendly practices without sacrificing style was the primary goal," Hodes said of the initial concept, "not just sustainable for sustainability s sake." The designer goes so far as to say she enjoys the limitations of her brand s chosen path, and the result is a sumptuous, sophisticated lineup of pieces made from ethically sourced materials (colored using plant-based dyes). Even the soft patina on Hodes impossibly buttery silks comes from the dye process, rather than traditional and toxic sand-washing.
Fall found Hodes looking at her signature styles—tie-neck blouses; bias-cut, floor-skimming slipdresses—through the lens of Rajasthan, India, with cropped long-sleeve tops that nodded to cholis worn as part of a sari, or a beautifully spare tunic dress inspired by the traditional men s kurta. The designer cut her teeth in styling, so these clothes lent themselves to versatility. To wit: There was nary a print in sight—though with a rich palette of Jaipur pink, ocher, cranberry, cream, and black, they were hardly missed. You could pair one of those slinky, lingerie-louche slipdresses or backless gowns with a cowl-neck pullover for day, or with a charmeuse cape for something black-tie-ready. Awaveawake s styles have traces of a 70s ethereality (Inherent Vice s bohemian bombshell Katherine Waterston stars in the brand s Video Fashion Week short for Style.com) that lend them a want-it-now quality, without verging on the retro; here a little of the sensibilities of Madame Grès and Madeleine Vionnet translated to something timeless and easy. The long and short of it? A lot of cool women from a lot of walks of life are going to fall hard for these pieces.