Dondup s name comes from a Tibetan lama, Mingyar Dondup, whose motto was "all men were created equal; color and religion mean nothing." At first, one wonders what this has to do with a denim company based in Fossombrone, in the peaceful Marche region of Italy. But, as Dondup s creative director, Manuela Mariotti, explained, jeans are by definition "democratic and ecumenical," a universal flag of freedom and self-expression that everyone can wear. Mariotti is an experimental spirit: Branching out in a field already crammed with zillions of different versions and proposals, she wanted to bring about a sense of research and innovation. So she came up with a perfectly anatomical fit dyed in a shade of indigo made from woad, a plant used in the Middle Ages to create an intense purplish blue, which is grown and harvested in sustainable mode near Dondup s headquarters.
The brand, which launched in 2000, has expanded into a full-fledged ready-to-wear line, becoming a favorite with Italian music stars and TV starlets, some of whom were in attendance during the presentation of the Fall collection. Mariotti s inspiration was 70s rock n roll, with some 90s grunge thrown in for good measure. She designs with an independent, confident woman in mind, someone with a strong personality like her own. Eveningwear was given an urban spin: A long sheer skirt was paired with a tough-looking leather biker jacket or fastened to an elegant tuxedo worn over studded, ripped black leggings. A rough-textured wool sweater in oversize proportions topped a pouf ballerina skirt—it made for a cool and modern look.
