Free glamour. That s how Gilles Mendel described his Fall 2015 collection, inspired in part by late-1970s New York City nightlife. He also looked at Richard Avedon s portraits of Anjelica Huston from earlier in that decade, because, "every night owl needs a day dress."
Mendel, like many designers feeling the 70s this season, used skinny scarves as a styling prop, like the black embroidered version tied around the waist of a lingerie-inspired jumpsuit. But he also fashioned them into work-ready frocks, including a billowy-sleeved, below-the-knee shirtdress done in a paisley-printed silk jacquard that was paired with tall leather and suede boots. As he suggested, some of the best looks were indeed made for daylight.
For evening, Mendel proposed a gold lamé jacquard jumpsuit with a plunging neckline, which was sexy and just flashy enough. A high-slit wrap dress—done in that same jacquard, but this time draped alongside black crepe—had a similar appeal. However, some of the fairly modest styles, like a mock-neck black crepe column with a low, draped back, didn t pack the necessary punch.
Mendel was relatively spare with the furs this season. But what he showed—particularly a mink intarsia cape featuring black-and-white-patterned flowers, as well as ruby red buds—demonstrated the arguably unmatched talent of his atelier. Mendel s client likes to be seen, and many pieces from this collection will afford her an unforgettable entrance.
